
NPR's foreign desk has a story on tourism in Shangri-La (Zhongdian).* After living in China for so many months, it's refreshing to see something approaching real reporting. That said, I think NPR piece is thoroughly wrong-headed.
Yes, the piece highlights some valid critiques. Well-heeled ethnic Hans (the dominant group throughout most of China) are swarming into what is essentially a Tibetan town. And, as might be expected, the profits are hardly being shared equally.
But those aspects miss the bigger picture of what is going on in Zhongdian. Ten years ago, it was a struggling frontier town. Its economy was heavily dependent on logging, which faced a nationwide ban from Beijing. Life is difficult in rural China, and it is even more so in geographically disadvantaged Yunnan, among the country’s poorest provinces. Large scale agriculture is nearly impossible in northwestern Diqing where Zhongdian is located.
Yet NPR neglects to mention any of that, and by using the passive voice, and saying the city "was rechristened five years ago Shangri-La," the editors sidestep the reasons behind the switch. It was not greedy fat cats that turned Zhongdian into an emerging tourist haven. It was the local government under pressure by an economy on the verge of collapse.
Of course any “rebranding” or “retooling” is going to lead to growing pains. However, I was seriously annoyed that such weighty issues as "too many shopping centers" and a busy local monastery gift shop seemed to dominate the article.
Only in the last line, however, did my frustration finally boil over. Paraphrasing a local photographer, the article claims, “The area's culture and its fragile ecosystem are under threat from tourism.” I’m no expert, but this seems – at best – to be a seriously suspect argument.
While imperfect in motivation, the economic opportunities offered by tourism have made preserving traditional culture profitable – and therefore sustainable. A great example of this is in Lijiang, where octogenarians perform classical Naxi music on stage next to twentysomethings. Profits from tourism there have been invested in educational programs to protect the unique (and nearly extinct) Dongba script.
Zhongdian itself is filled with Tibetan handicrafts that are sold in the same “shopping centers” (actually alley-side stalls) that are knocked in the piece. Just outside Zhongdian, “ecovillages” have emerged by mixing traditional culture, eco-friendly living, and small-scale tourism.
I don’t know enough about the environmental aspect to go on too long, but from my visit it seemed as though the town's chief environmental challenge was the scarred landscape of over-logging from decades past. And logging is exactly the issue that local tourism promotion seeks to address.
*The one point of the article that I do tend to agree with is that "Shangri-La" is so awkward I have trouble writing about it or even taking it seriously. I used the older Chinese name -- Zhongdian -- in this post.